A Garden of Fedoras

This year we are pleased to be participating in Crochetville's National Crochet Month Designer Blog Tour! All this month they have been highlighting various designers, so be sure to check in on their blog each day for the featured designer. But today is our day to shine.

Before I get to our featured pattern, I'd like to mention that the blog tour also has a pet charity project. Crochetville is a corporate sponsor of Halos of Hope, a 501(c)3 charity that provides handmade hats to cancer patients, so we are trying to see how many hats we can get them this month! If you would like to participate, hats may be sent to the following address:

Crochetville LLC
ATTN: Amy Shelton
103 Scarlet Oak Circle
Harvest, AL 35749

Now for the important question: What type of hat should you make? And that brings us to our featured pattern!

A Garden of Fedoras


When we asked if the hats should be traditional chemo caps or if they could be something fun like a fedora, we received this in answer: "Just because you've lost your hair, doesn't mean you've lost your sense of style."

We've been wanting to develop a fedora pattern for quite some time. The fedora is part of The Animator's trademark look for his retro gaming podcast, and we've been dying to create matching father-daughter fedoras for him and Little Lovely.

(Wait--is this a trilby or a fedora? While Americans tend to call this style of hat a trilby, the hat industry has no actual standards governing this sort of terminology. Opinions vary based on country and manufacturer. We choose to call this hat a fedora simply because it's the more recognizable word. See this post from our favorite hatter for more details.)

A Garden of Fedoras

What makes this pattern special? We wanted to make a fedora that didn't require any special shaping when the crocheting was done. No stiff wires or tricky blocking; when it's done, it's done. And we wanted to be sure to use one of Halos of Hope's recommended yarns. They emphasize that soft is key, so unfortunately craft store acrylic won't work for these hats. For this reason, we chose Cascade Cherub Aran for its washability and affordability.

Since the theme of the blog tour is "spring garden," we added an optional daffodil for a more feminine look. The daffodil has long been the official flower for the American Cancer Society, symbolizing strength and courage.

While our pattern is sized from Preemie all the way up to Adult Man, please note that Halos of Hope only accepts sizes 6 months and up. We just wanted to include the smaller sizes for our friends and family who also donate to NICUs.

Special thanks to fiddledragon for her assistance in the development of this pattern!

A Garden of Fedoras

Finished Size: Newborn (0-6m, 6-12m, Toddler, Child, Teen, Adult)

Skill Level: Intermediate

Materials:
Main Color (MC): Cascade Cherub Aran, 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2) skeins
Size F-5 (3.75mm) crochet hook
Stitch marker

Optional:
Flower (Yellow): Cascade Cherub Aran, less than one skein
Yarn needle

Gauge Square:
Ch 34. ROW 1. Sc in third ch from hook, *ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch; rep from * across. (16 sc) ROWS 2-28. Ch 2; turn. Sc in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * across. (16 sc and 28 rows = 4 inches)


*Do not skip the gauge square on this project!*
In testing this pattern, we discovered that meeting the gauge is crucial to the success of this pattern. The gauge is very tight to help give the hat structure. Some testers reported having to go down to a steel hook in order to meet the gauge, and some testers reported not being able to meet the gauge at all. The gauge must be met in order for this pattern to turn out successfully, but once the gauge is met (if you can meet it), the rest of the pattern is smooth sailing.

Special Stitch: Picot
Ch 3, sl st in last st worked before ch 3.

Note:
Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses.  To avoid confusion, it may be helpful to circle the numbers corresponding to your size before beginning this project.  When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

Crown Top

Worked in the round without joining or turning between rounds. To help keep track of your stitches, it may be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning of each rnd.

With MC, ch 5.

Rnd 1. Sc in second ch from hook and ea ch across, then rotate and work 1 sc in ea unused loop of the beg ch across the bottom. 8 sc

Rnd 2. 2 sc in ea sc around. 16 sc

Rnd 3. 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in last 2 sc. 24 sc

RND 4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice. (32 sc)

Rnd 5. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) twice. 40 sc

Rnd 6. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) twice. 48 sc

Sizes 0-6m to Adult Only:

Rnd 7. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) twice. 56 sc

Sizes Toddler to Adult Only:

Rnd 8. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) twice. 64 sc

Sizes Teen to Adult Only:

Rnd 9. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc) 4 times, sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc) twice. 72 sc

All Sizes:

Rnds 6-7 (8-9, 8-10, 8-10, 9-12, 9-12, 10-13). Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 8 (10, 11, 11, 13, 13, 14). (Sc, ch 1) in ea sc around. Join with sl st in first sc in rnd.

The last rnds are worked by joining and turning between rnds.

Rnds 9-10 (11-12, 12-14, 12-14, 14-16, 14-16, 15-18). Ch 2; turn. Sc in first ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in current rnd.

Finish off. The join in the last rnd marks the center back. If the Crown Top is ruffly at this point, block it before continuing on to the Crown Body (see this post for tips on blocking).

Note: The diameter of the Crown Top is not the final diameter of the hat; the diameter will continue to increase with the Crown Body.

Crown Body

Worked in the round from the top down, joining between rounds and turning. The joins mark the center back.

With MC, ch 82 (98, 114, 114, 130, 130, 146).

Note: If you are in the habit of doing the beginning ch with a larger hook than the rest of the project, do not do so with the Crown Body or Brim. It may result in a ruffled edge, and in turn a sloppy finish to the hat.

Rnd 1. Sc in third ch from hook, (ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch) 8 (10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 16) times, ch 1, skip next ch, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch) 9 (11, 13, 13, 15, 15, 17) times, ch 1, skip next ch, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across. Join with sl st in beg ch. 44 (52, 60, 60, 68, 68, 76) sc

At this point, the Body is going to look much wider than the Top. Have faith: they will fit together! There is a concept in garment construction known as "easing," which is fitting a larger piece together with a smaller piece. You'll notice that the beginning chain of the Body has the same number of stitches as the last round of the Top. This is to aid you in neatly fitting the two pieces together, despite the discrepancy in size.

Rnds 2-5. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, *ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch sp; rep from * across, working the last sc in the t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd.

Rnd 6. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) 9 (11, 13, 13, 15, 15, 17) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) 10 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across, working last (sc, ch 1, sc) in the t-ch of previous rnd Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. 48 (56, 64, 64, 72, 72, 80) sc

Rnds 7-10. Rep rnds 2-5.

Rnd 11. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) 10 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 18) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) 11 (13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 19) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across, working last (sc, ch 1, sc) in the t-ch of previous rnd Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. 52 (60, 68, 68, 76, 76, 84) sc

Rnds 12-15. Rep rnds 2-5.

Finish off Newborn size.

Rnd 16. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 19) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (14, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across, working last (sc, ch 1, sc) in the t-ch of previous rnd Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (64, 72, 72, 80, 80, 88) sc

Rnds 17-20. Rep rnds 2-5.

Finish off 0-6m and 6-12m sizes.

Rnd 21. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (-, -, 16, 18, 18, 20) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (-, -, 17, 19, 19, 21) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across, working last (sc, ch 1, sc) in the t-ch of previous rnd Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (-, -, 76, 84, 84, 92) sc

Rnds 22-25. Rep rnds 2-5.

Finish off Toddler and Child sizes.

Rnd 26. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (-, -, -, -, 19, 21) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch, *(ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch) - (-, -, -, -, 20, 22) times, ch 1, skip next sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch; rep from * across, working last (sc, ch 1, sc) in the t-ch of previous rnd Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (-, -, -, -, 88, 96) sc

Rnds 27-30. Rep rnds 2-5.

Finish off.

Brim

Worked in the round from inner edge to outer edge, joining and turning between rounds. The joins mark the center back.

With MC, ch 106 (130, 146, 154, 170, 178, 194).

Rnd 1. Sc in third ch from hook, *ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch; rep from * across. Join with sl st in beg ch. 52 (64, 72, 76, 84, 88, 96) sc

Rnd 2. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 18 (23, 26, 27, 30, 32, 35) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 13 (16, 18, 19, 21, 22, 24) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. 54 (66, 74, 78, 86, 90, 98) sc

Rnd 3. Ch 2; turn. (Sc, ch 1) in ea ch sp around, sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd.

Rnd 4. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 18 (23, 26, 27, 30, 32, 35) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 15 (18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 26) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. 56 (68, 76, 80, 88, 92, 100) sc

Rnd 5. Rep rnd 3.

Rnd 6. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 18 (23, 26, 27, 30, 32, 35) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) 17 (20, 22, 23, 25, 26, 28) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. 58 (70, 76, 80, 88, 92, 100) sc

Rnd 7. Rep rnd 3.

Finish off Newborn size.

Rnd 8. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (23, 26, 27, 30, 32, 35) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (22, 24, 25, 27, 28, 30) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (72, 78, 82, 90, 94, 102) sc

Rnd 9. Rep rnd 3.

Finish off 0-6m and 6-12 sizes.

Rnd 10. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (-, -, 27, 30, 32, 35) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (-, -, 27, 29, 30, 32) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (-, -, 84, 92, 96, 104) sc

Rnd 11. Rep rnd 3.

Finish off Toddler and Child sizes.

Rnd 12. Ch 2; turn. Skip first sc, sc in first ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (-, -, -, -, 32, 35) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) - (-, -, -, -, 32, 34) times, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp; rep from * around, working last sc in t-ch of previous rnd. Join with sl st in t-ch of current rnd. - (-, -, -, -, 98, 106) sc

Rnd 13. Rep rnd 3.

Finish off.

Fedora Assembly

For best results, block all pieces before assembly.

Note: Although the assembly instructions refer to “Wrong Sides” and “Right Sides” of the fabric, whatever side is designated as the “Right Side” is up to you. Choose whichever side you think looks best. The distinction is only made to indicate which side of the hat the joining stitches should be made.

Line up the center back of the Crown Top with the back of the Crown Body. Pin into place.  With WRONG SIDES together, join yarn with slip stitch through both Crown Top and Crown Body. Working through both layers, ch 1, then (sc, ch 1) evenly around to join both pieces together.

Line up the center back of the Brim with the center back of the Crown Body. Pin into place.  With RIGHT SIDES together, join yarn with slip stitch through both Brim and Crown Body. Working through both layers, ch 1, then (sc, ch 1) evenly around to join both pieces together.

Weave in all ends. Fold brim up in the back and down in the front.

Optional: The following instructions are for the daffodil embellishment.

Daffodil Inner Petals

Worked in the round without joining or turning between rnds.

With Yellow, ch 2.

Rnd 1. 6 sc in second ch from hook. 6 sc

Rnd 2. 2 sc in ea sc around. 12 sc

Rnds 3 & 4. Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 5. *Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from *around. 18 sc

Rnds 6 & 7. Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 8. *Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around. 24 sc

Rnd 9. Sc in ea sc around.

Rnd 10. *Sc in next sc, ch 3; rep from * around. Join with sl st in first sc in rnd.

Finish off.

Daffodil Outer Petals

Worked in the round, joining, but not turning, between rnds.

With Yellow, ch 2.

Rnd 1. (Sc, ch 4) 6 times in second ch from hook. Join with sl st in first sc in rnd. 6 sc and 6 ch-4 sp

Rnd 2. Ch 1, sc in same sc as joining, *(hdc, dc, 5 tr, dc, hdc) in next ch-4 sp; petal made. Sc in next sc; rep from * across, omitting sc from last rep. Join with sl st in first sc in rnd. 6 sc and 6 petals

Rnd 3. *Sc in next hdc, hdc in next dc, dc in next tr, tr in next 2 tr, picot, tr in next tr, dc in next tr, hdc in next dc, sc in next hdc, sl st in next sc; rep from * around, working last sl st in same sc as joining from previous rnd.

Finish off.

Daffodil Assembly

Sew Inner Petals to center of Outer Petals. Sew Daffodil to desired position on Fedora. Weave in all ends.

Abbreviations
beg beginning
ch chain
dc double crochet
ea each
hdc half-double crochet
m month
MC main color
mm millimeter
rep repeat
rnd round
rnds         rounds
sc single crochet
sl st     slip stitch
sp space
t-ch   turning chain
tr treble crochet